May Manton 9510 - Comfort Kit

Comfort kits are not all that complicated to make and instructions for them with measured line drawings were published in magazines during WWI, so it's a little unusual to see a manufactured pattern for one. Why the Newark (N.J.) chapter of the Red Cross was favored is a mystery.

This pattern appears never to have been used. The insert of suggested items for filling the comfort kit was still enclosed.

For those of you who'd like to try making your own comfort kit, here are some detailed scans for you to download and enlarge or print out and grid up for hand enlarging.  Notice that the longest dimension is 33", and the layout diagram shows the kit being laid crosswise (selvedge to selvedge.)   The one fabric that I know that is still available in this width is pillow ticking, which is a very suitable fabric for this purpose.

February 7th, 2017 - Added detailed scans.

McCall 2550 - Ladies One-Piece Work Apron

1909. This pattern was shown in the Spring-Summer 1909 Ready Reference Catalog of McCall Patterns.

I bought this entirely because I thought the frou-frou fashion illustration was so wonderful - a Gibson Girl artist, palette in hand, a perky bow in her hair.

The joke was on me. Of all the apron patterns I've bought this is the one that shows the hardest use. There are many small tears in the neckline and lots of pin holes in all the expected places. I can imagine a woman making this up repeatedly not only for herself but perhaps for her sisters or daughters.

Made up, this reminds me of a surgical gown. It's very comfortable. The weird little cap sleeves wrap around the arm comfortably and don't look at all strange. This apron has no shoulder seam; it's cut in one piece and was designed for 36" wide fabric, very common for aprons of this period. This raises an interesting point. If this apron is made up in a print showing a decided direction, the print will appear upside-down on the back. You and I might think twice about this, but its possible this wasn't such a big deal to the original makers/wearers. Anybody who has studied originals, please feel free to pipe up here.

I took the easy way out and made this up in a cotton stripe.  As usual, there were no instructions for finishing the neck or side openings.  I cut a shaped facing for the neck but just turned under the edges of the sleeve/side openings. This was a huge mistake.  There is a lot of strain at the bottom of the sleeves, and if you blow up the photo, you can see where I'm beginning to rip out the bottoms of the sleeves.  The next time I make this up I'll either cut shaped facings or I'll bias bind these edges.  I'll also drop the pockets down a couple of inches.  The original pattern doesn't include pockets, but I can't be bothered with an apron that doesn't have them, so I put them on.

There was no indication on the pattern as to how the apron closed.  I used a skirt hook at the neck edge and am careful to wrap one back side over the other when I tie the apron.  Note that no pattern piece was provided for the strings; the instructions state "If desired, cut tie strings," and the pattern indicates where these are to be sewn to the apron.

The designation as a work apron is important; this distinguishes it from tea or sewing aprons.

Pictorial Review 3783 - Ladies' Work Apron

1910 through 1917

Pictorial Review Company

Pictorial Review was established in 1899 as a typical ladies' magazine, with articles on current fashion trends, child care, and housekeeping. The sewing patterns appear throughout the magazine. The usual order in which the patterns are illustrated is ladies, young ladies, girls, children, babies, accessories. Aprons typically appear near the accessories patterns.

I haven't yet located an issue of the Pictorial Review magazine featuring this pattern. It's possible it was featured only in newspapers and was used as a sort of promotional item. I suspect that when you received your apron pattern there would be an insert for a discounted subscription to the magazine.

The earliest reference I've found for this pattern is a 1910 newspaper advertisement.

Modesto (California)Bee

Friday, November 18, 1910, p. 3

The latest newspaper reference to this apron I've found is interesting. The Lead (South Dakota) Daily Call for June 29, 1917 ran an article on page one detailing a meeting of the Lead chapter of the American Red Cross. The chapter was ramping up their organization to support the war effort. (1) The ladies had made a trip just a few miles up the road to Deadwood to observe the Deadwood chapter's work and methods, which the Lead ladies proposed to follow. The ladies were expected

"to do sewing, knitting, gauze work and engage in other like activities that will be conducive to the comfort and physical well being of the troops. Much of the work the ladies will able to do in their own homes"

However, there was an expectation that some ladies would prefer to do their work at a converted hall, on specified days and times. And when working in the hall

"All members while working at headquarters are required to wear aprons of a specified design. They must have sleeves and be of a certain length. The exact style of  apron is Pictorial Review pattern No. 3783, a supply of which will be found at Chase's store Monday afternoon." 

Ladies could also purchase aprons ready-made from Daniels and Fisher, Denver, for $1.50. Daniels & Fisher promoted themselves as the Denver equivalent of Marshall Fields in Chicago and John Wanamaker in Philadelphia. Daniels & Fisher was quite proud of their tower, built in 1910.

The Ladies' Work Apron

An apron designated as a work apron usually means that the apron provides full coverage. It often has sleeves. The description on the envelope reads:

With High Neck and Rolling Collar, or Low Neck in Square or Rounded Outline and having Sleeves in Full or Elbow Length or Sleeveless with Sleeve Protectors.

The instructions finish with "Any desired style of trimming may be adopted," which is interesting for a work apron.

Yardage requirements are given for both 36" and 27" wide fabrics. These are both common widths for utilitarian fabrics. We'll see that these widths will require some additional work. Separate yardage requirements are given for the sleeves.

Making the Ladies' Work Apron

This pattern includes still has its instruction and cutting guide. I suspect these go missing quite often.

Stay tuned!

(1) Although World War I began in 1914, the United States didn't declare war on Germany and become directly involved in the War until after April 6, 1917. The Lead Red Cross Chapter started their work just ten weeks after the war declaration.

Originally published on 7/6/2008, substantially re-written on 11/24/24.